Not a seat was empty at Lara Miller’s Fall 2010 Runway show last Friday.  The show was not only to display Miller’s Fall collection to the tough fashion critics of Chicago, but also to celebrate 5 years of independent sustainable style. And so within the very chic, urban brick walls of The Loft on Lake, that is just what she did with her very wearable and multi-functional Fall 2010 Collection.

I’m going to just come right out and say that I for one am obsessed with this collection. With each model that walked down the runway I found myself saying, “that looks so comfortable.” Miller featured pieces that that could be worn in several different ways, ultimately giving you three different outfits within one piece. Many pieces in Miller’s collection featured a boho cardigan fitting very loosely but still looking clean and crisp. I saw a lot of nude colors but I also saw bright orange incorporated into the ensembles.

As far as work wear, Miller’s collection had a lot of work appropriate pieces in her collection.  She featured several skirts that were very elegant and could easily be paired with a white button down shirt. What stood out to me the most about her collection was her use of sustainable materials. Normally, when we see a sustainable collection we only see very mute, nude colors. I always think to myself when will there be materials that are sustainable and not so bland? Well, Lara Miller did a great job incorporating color into her collection while remaining sustainable. Overall, this was a great event and I can’t wait to see her next collection!

I would like to introduce you to the extremely talented designer, Annie Havlicek. Havlicek is a Chicago girl born and bread. Growing up she spent much of her time studying fine art at The School of the Art Institute of Chicago. She then ventured off to New York City where she attended Parsons School of Design, a school that carries a consistent reputation of producing many of the best designers in the world. Upon graduation, pieces of Havlicek’s senior collection were placed in the renowned Saks 5^th Avenue windows in New York City. Having received top-of-the-line training as a design intern at Michael Kors, Havlicek went on to designed exclusive pieces for the well-known store, Anthropologie.

The designer at her trunk show at Chicago boutique Habit in December 2008

The designer is currently working from her studio space in Williamsburg, Brooklyn producing pieces for her Spring 2010 collection. “The Spring 2010 collection was inspired by Renoir’s paintings, Bal du Moulin de la Galette and Le dejeuner des canotiers and by my first summer living in Williamsburg, Brooklyn,” Havlicek shared. She believes that her collection represents the Sunday afternoons depicted in Renoir’s paintings as well as her typical Sunday afternoons that consist of brunch, dancing, attending concerts and much more.

Image of Renoir’s Bal du Moulin de la Galette

The color palette and fabric direction for her collection was pulled directly from Renoir’s paintings and reinterpreted into current silhouettes. The collection includes white striped silk dresses with delicately trimmed black ribbon, crisp black and navy silk linen separates inspired by menswear, clean soft white blouses, and rich navy accented with unexpected touches of bright red.

Several pieces featured in Havlicek’s Spring 2010 collection would be a perfect addition to not only your work wardrobe but also your everyday wardrobe. One of the many reasons I love this collection so much is because it is filled with many multi-functional pieces, ideal for both work and play. Pieces such as the Bridgette Trench, Lynne Jacket, Andree Top, Camille Top, and my personal favorite Helene Skirt, are all pieces that I would suggest for most work wardrobes and are great pieces to have in your closet to start out the new season.

Havlicek’s beautiful, elegant, and sophisticated Spring 2010 collection will be carried at her new boutique, Annie, which will open on May 15^th and be located at 154 Orchard Street, New York, NY 10002 (Lower East Side). For those of you who know her from her Windy City homeland, fret not, as her clothing is sold at Chicago boutiques Habit and Handle With Care. Havlicek’s clothing is also sold at other boutiques throughout the United States. Additional information regarding Annie Havlicek and her collection can be found at her website, www.anniehavlicek.com. Trust me, this is a name you will want to remember!

Clothing photos courtesy of Annie Havlicek

The format of the event this afternoon was very relaxed and quite swanky! The American Express Skybox was literally between the Promenade and the Tent venues within the tents of Bryant Park – so when you looked into either venue, you pretty much had fourth-row viewing from an aerial perspective. Plus they had a full bar, and they lovingly supplied us with sandwiches as not many of us have really eaten since getting here and running on coffee ever since. All of us fashion bloggers sat in the plush benches and chairs while Jennine Jacob, founder of Independent Fashion Bloggers and blogger of The Coveted, and Mallis sat in high stools in the front of the room. It was an open forum with questions and discussion, and lots of interesting topics came forth.

One question that was raised as it is definitely a hot button issue is how bloggers are going to be recognized in the future that is New York Fashion Week as many aren’t allowed in and have just as much influence (if not more in certain cases) than some editors who gain access to the tents. “We are at the behest of the public relations firms,” replied Mallis. “We are the hotel and it’s up to the designers whether to let you in their room or not.” She also shared the importance of the regional editor as they are the ones who support that designer locally whereas bloggers’ audiences are usually international, which is why many times those editors are chosen to attend shows over the fashion blogger. “I actually think that you should go to your garages and post placards and become unionized,” Mallis added.

The primary point Mallis brought forth was that New York Fashion Week is a business, and if a publication doesn’t support that business (whether it’s a blog or a print publication), then those editors will most likely not be invited to Fashion Week. “What we’re here to do is sell clothing. This is a business here and we want people here to support that,” she said. The question was raised on what would stand out to IMG when reviewing a blog. Mallis had two qualifications – while adding the disclaimer that the public relations team would be better equipped as they’re more involved in that matter – and they were credibility and concise coverage. “We’re not like the Chinese government I promise!” she exclaimed.

Another topic that has been a very talked about subject after its announcement was New York Fashion Week moving from Bryant Park after 18 years and shifting location to Lincoln Center. As to the layout and details, Mallis was quite tight-lipped about the whole thing and primarily shared that it will be a similar set-up to Bryant Park with tents. Otherwise, she said we’d have to wait for the official announcements from IMG. One clarification Mallis did make was how the announcement was originally delivered about the move.

The decision for New York Fashion Week to shift locations came not from Fashion Week but from Bryant Park. The announcements on the move that came from Bryant Part and the city all stated that Fashion Week just got too big for Bryant Park. “That message has been misconstrued and misunderstood,” stated Mallis, as she said that they never expanded Fashion Week as the number of seats never changed. “The message got too big…Bryant Park got too big [for Fashion week].” When asked about her most shocking moments during the 18 years of Fashion Weeks at Bryant Park, Mallis replied, “Well the most shocking moments I probably wouldn’t say.” However she did admit that throughout the years, she would have experiences that she would say to herself that she’d never forget it, but then the next day happened that completely overshadowed the previous event. “I hate myself for not taking more notes,” she said. The two memories she did share with us involved Bill Blass’ last show and 9/11. “The reporters literally took off their stilettos and put on their running shoes to cover a completely different story,” she recollected.

While wrapping up questions, Mallis was asked if she read any blogs. “Some,” she replied, admitting that she struggles to find the time to give quality reading time to the fashion blogs in circulation. She did admit that reading blogs “is a little bit like Alice in Wonderland as it doesn’t end and keeps going and going.” However she did say that she is very excited to read all of the blogs of those of us who attended the discussion today. So Mallis, if you are reading this, thank you very much for your time and fantastic discussion today at the American Express ‘Tweet-Up“ event during this year’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week!

TheWorkingWardrobe
Why did you decide to design sustainable clothing? What is your background with sustainability?

Melissa Baswell – Mountains of the Moon
I was interested in both art and clothing from a very young age, and started sewing with my mom when I was a child. I was also raised by environmentalist parents who taught me the importance of respecting the earth, and I was involved in eco-preservation activities and clubs throughout my childhood and teen years. In college (University of Wisconsin-Madison), I studied Acting/Theatre, but also interned with WISPIRG’s Environmental Education program, and continued to design clothing for myself and my friends. It was during a required costume design class that I had an epiphany of sorts, where I realized I wanted to design rather than act. It seemed natural to find a way to combine my passion for sustainability with a career as a designer.

TheWorkingWardrobe
You mentioned during a previous conversation that you wanted to change the world in college – what did you end up changing and what is your viewpoint now?

Melissa Baswell – Mountains of the Moon
Although I was, admittedly, very idealistic in college and without much real world experience, I still had a clear vision of ways I could make a difference through my career. I wouldn’t say I’ve changed the world by any means, but I do believe that collectively, those of us who have committed ourselves to sustainable design have certainly made a difference. The fashion industry as a whole is incredibly wasteful, and many of us have worked to prove that style doesn’t have to be sacrificed to produce a garment from eco-friendly materials without excessive waste. Today, the whole “eco-fashion doesn’t have to mean shapeless burlap sacks” statement is almost a cliché, but in the past, it took a lot of work to convince people of this. We have a long way to go, but a shift in fashion’s paradigm has already begun, and I’d like to think that the work of eco-fashion designers over the past ten years was a huge part of this shift.

TheWorkingWardrobe
What is your response to the statement, “All ‘green’ clothes are ugly”?

Melissa Baswell – Mountains of the Moon
Honestly, I think that it is (finally!) apparent to most that this is no longer the case. In the past, the majority of “green” clothing was, although not necessarily “ugly,” stereotypically granola, with an emphasis on simple garments in traditionally earthy colors. Today, there is so much more sustainable fabric available to designers, and so many designers have adopted an eco- and socially-friendly approach to design and production. This has allowed for eco-fashion to encompass everything from the casual yoga-inspired lines to couture pieces.

TheWorkingWardrobe
Who are your customers?

Melissa Baswell – Mountains of the Moon
The line features both casual designs and more high-end contemporary womens wear. Most of our customers are young, urban women, but I focus on creating pieces that aren’t overly trendy and can be worn in a number of different settings, which allows us to have a customer based that isn’t defined by age or income. My design aesthetic stems from combining nature with urban environments, and although the pieces are clearly feminine and slightly romantic, I try to create collections that have a little something for everyone.

TheWorkingWardrobe
What is the one thing every working woman needs?

Melissa Baswell – Mountains of the Moon
A simple but elegant dress made from solid fabrics. There is nothing like a dress to make a woman embrace her femininity, and if the dress is classically understated and effortless, it allows for infinite possibly. I think more than anyone, the working woman can truly appreciate the ability to take an outfit from day to night or to dress it up or down with accessories, and this kind of dress is built for these options. This is also a very sustainable way to dress. Focusing on understated key pieces that can be easily transformed rather than filling a closet with overly trendy, disposable clothing creates considerably less waste.

TheWorkingWardrobe
You also work with fashions for several music groups? How did you get into that and how is that different from your collections?

Melissa Baswell – Mountains of the Moon
Music has always been a huge part of my life, and when I started my design career, my focus was on creating one-of-a-kind pieces that I sold at music events. So in that sense, my beginnings were actually in the music industry rather than the fashion industry. As my company grew and I started producing full collections and selling to stores, I began to follow standard fashion industry schedules. Although I no longer sold at music events, I continued to attend them, and was fortunate to get to know a lot of wonderful people in the music industry over the years (including my boyfriend, a Stage Manager for a touring band).

I was initially approached several years ago to do styling for a band’s photo shoot . This led to more music-related styling jobs, which in turn led to other projects, like designing t-shirts for bands’ tours and music events, and producing eco-fashion shows at music festivals. Music and fashion are related on so many levels, and finding ways to combine the two feels very natural to me. So many bands and music industry events are working to become more eco-conscious too, so the concept of bringing sustainable fashion into the projects I’m hired to do is met with open arms. It’s a completely different line of work than fashion design, and I absolutely love it. In fact, my work with so music-related projects over the past couple of years has inspired me to devote more of my career to this industry, and I’m actually in the process of launching a separate company based on this work.

TheWorkingWardrobe
Since you design clothes for many music groups, why don’t you design more commercial men’s clothing?

Melissa Baswell – Mountains of the Moon
I do design a few men’s t-shirts, but as any designer will tell you, producing a collection involves investing a lot of time and money, and neither sustainable materials nor local production are cheap. The state of economy coupled with a lack of ample time simply doesn’t allow for me to create everything I’d like to, including full men’s and children’s lines. I’m pretty open to new opportunities though, and I’m certainly not opposed to the idea in the future.

TheWorkingWardrobe
What do you think the future is for sustainable fashion?

Melissa Baswell – Mountains of the Moon
The whole concept of sustainable fashion has changed in some pretty profound ways over the last few years, which is both exciting and important.

Incorporating eco-conscious materials into clothing marked the first phase of sustainable fashion. Now, those of us committed to sustainable design realize that we have a much greater obligation than just the materials, and must consider how every single aspect of the design process, from the design itself to production to marketing, affects the earth (and its inhabitants).
Creating workable solutions can be challenging, especially in a recession that has changed the face of retail as we know it.

But in an industry that in the past has centered on a model based on extreme competition, the challenges that sustainable designers collectively face now seem to be fueling a desire to work together, with a new model based on sharing ideas and resources, and collaborating on projects and events. This is allowing for what once was a very small and limited part of the industry to expand, re-define, and even revolutionize fashion as we know it.

Building on this, consumers and the fashion industry itself are venturing toward a new place, where a real appreciation for the necessity of sustainable clothing exists, both from an environmental/social standpoint, and a monetary standpoint. The idea of cautiously purchased, well-made garments designed to be timeless and versatile is beginning to, and will continue to, replace the concept of frivolous spending on disposable, fad-driven clothing.

Check out some of Melissa’s lovely clothing items at her site, HERE!

After college graduation, Coxworth worked in technical design for Polo Ralph Lauren in New York City. “I ironically did bottoms,” she said laughing as her specialty is tops. She eventually switched to men’s merchandising for Polo, which was a fantastic learning experience for her. “I had a lot of meetings with Ralph [Lauren] and I got to hear what he thought,” she said. However, in 2006, when the Chicago’s Fashion Advisory Council, a group dedicated to keeping local talent from fleeing to the coasts, was created, she decided to return to the Midwest. “My plan was to be in New York for five years, but it seemed like such a perfect time to go back,” said Coxworth. So go back she did, and it wasn’t easy.

“I was this big shot merchandiser from Polo and when I talked to small vendors in Chicago, they were like, ‘Who the hell are you?’” she said. It also didn’t help that Chicago doesn’t have a technical garment district resulting in everything being very spread out throughout Chicagoland. Through her trial and error, she went to a bank with a business plan on November 13, 2006, and on May 22, 2007, she launched her Web site with first collection of products. “It’s funny that I remember the exact dates!” she admitted laughing.

Between her business plan and product launch, Coxworth became involved in Chicago’s Fashion Incubator program in late February of 2007, which is designed to provide six emerging Chicago-based designers resources, including work space, curriculum, mentoring, to launch their careers in fashion. When asked how her experience was with the Incubator program, she said that the program gave her a lot of great press and fantastic working space, however she said that during the program, she just didn’t fit. “I was different,” she said. “I had a lot of experience on the business side and that put me in a different category.” However the one thing the program did give her, was respect.

“I wasn’t just some kid doing this,” she said. “It gave me relevance to my customers.” Those customers mainly consisted of working women in the downtown area. Her lines are constructed very well, not trendy but classic. “A 25-year-old or a 70-year-old can wear the same shirt,” she said. What’s next for the iconic blouse designer with the lovely ruffled collars? “Mailing catalogues,” declared Coxworth. With a strong background in direct mail, this is a project near and dear to Coxworth. Expect seeing her “soft test” mailing for her next Spring collection. However she admitted that the mailing wouldn’t be worth it until she had a certain amount of customers. “I have a magic number in my head,” she shared. What that number is, she just smiled and shook her head. Not that Coxworth would jinx her continued success, but being a savvy business woman, we can respect her decision and have faith in her continued notoriety.

And of course, we could not leave without asking Coxworth what every working woman needs. “Well, obviously a great white shirt!” she declared. “You want a great go-to piece that’s a little different than the basic button down.” Would that great shirt have ruffles by any chance? Coxworth’s response: “You can never have too many ruffles!”

First Lady Michelle Obama Wearing a Kate Boggiano Blouse

as Featured in InStyle Magazine

It all started in the New York City bead district. Goede discovered a handful of blue and green baubles that would soon turn into her bestselling Rock Candy collection. Just as the women at a networking event exclaiming over enticing jewelry, Goede had the same reaction to these items that would soon elicit that same reaction – “These would be cool as a bracelet!” she exclaimed at the time. And she was right. “People were stopping me everywhere,” said Goede.

With a background in graphic design, Goede was anxious to get out of 2D and into 3D; “plus I have an affinity to working with my hands,” she said. And after doing some investigating of the Swarovski crystal, she decided that her Rock Candy would bring her into the third dimension. She started with only selling the bracelets. “It was very naive of me,” she admitted. Officially launching in October 2004, Goede created the bracelet in six different colors, and within three months she earned her money back, although she said that was primarily because of her friends and family. The next step was for her to market outside her immediate connections. So naturally, she sent a bracelet to Oprah. She did not receive a call from Oprah, but rather from editor-at-large for O, the Oprah Magazine, Gayle King, who was excited to inform Goede that King wore the bracelet at the 2005 Academy Awards.

And in just one more year, Goede was able to officially move into 3D, and took her business full time. However as she mentioned earlier, she realized quickly that she had to make different kinds of jewelry. Now Goede not only boasts bracelets among her repertoire, but also necklaces, earrings, rings and even jewelry for children! Her other collections include: Rock Candy, Luster & Bright, Mélange, Confection, and Cachet. She also is only a handful of jewelry designers who work with Swarovski crystals. “There are not many of us, even in the entire country,” said Goede. “I love the sparkle of Swarovksi,” she said, “and the vibrant, visual impact of crystal.” Goede works directly with Swarovski to ensure that she receives the best quality of crystal and also gets it first.

So who buys from Goede? “I have two segments of customers,” she said. Typically her client ranges in age from 28 to 58 and is either a professional woman who has a fond association with Swarovski or others who say, ‘I just like the color/sparkle’. “Jewelry is very personal and I respect that,” said Goede. So when a customer says that a necklace is just ‘too big for her’, she listens and works with what makes them comfortable. A few suggestions that she does make may include what colors would work best with skin tones and hair color. For example, if you have blonde hair, Goede would suggest not to purchase yellow earrings as they would be hidden and not appreciated. Goede also listens to her clients as well – “Some of my best ideas come from my clients,” she said, “and I put it through my filter, see if it fits my mission, and see where it goes.”

With the working woman in mind, Goede thinks that what she needs is one great pair of earrings. “They wear a lot of collars, button-up collars…their necklines are unpredictable, but you can always see your ears and it draws people to your face,” she said. Regarding color, Goede suggested to wear a neutral color such as smoke or caramel in matte crystals. They are everyday, lightweight, and will no doubt elicit a gasp at the next business event.

Like what you see?

Click HERE to win Goede’s popular Ligne necklace during TheWorkingWardrobe January giveaway!

Another one of Lauren’s clients who also works as an attorney, Pam, was gracious enough to showcase her working looks from the designer. The collar on the first look is removable for a transitional look from season to season, and I love the cut in the back of her jacket! The second look is also an ideal ensemble for the seasons.

Here, local chain fitness club owner Shari showcases a fantastic ensemble of yellow blouse, brown skirt and matching skinny belt, all put together with the amazing trench that you may recognize from Lauren’s 2010 Spring collection showcased in Macy’s runway show during Fashion Focus Chicago this year. Concluding her looks is a lovely cream dress with feather-enhanced coat.

We couldn’t showcase these three women’s lovely looks without showing you how great they looked together! And of course we have the lovely Lauren Lein herself among her gorgeous designs while showing off her own individual stellar style.

Photos: Abigail Harenberg www.abigailharenberg.com

The first look that Allison tried on was a lovely purple blouse with pinstripe skirt suit. The seamstress worked her magic pinning both the shirt and skirt to ensure the perfect fit to ensure Allison was at her most comfortable at work, both sitting and standing. She also picked out what buttons suited her style best to be included on the shirt and blazer.

Included in the fitting process was ensuring that all the lengths were correct. After looking at several lengths, Allison decided to have the skirt reach just below the knee for a professional look while still making a stylish statement. Also the seamstress made sure that her sleeves wouldn’t be too long or short both in regards to the jacket and the blouse. Allison was also fitted in a pair of slacks to go with the blazer as a good mix and match item.

Allison’s second look was a stunning green dress with a tie-neck. While the seamstress was ensuring that the length worked appropriately in flats and heels, Lauren (shown right) gave her some options on different ways to work the tie.

Fittings aren’t just about making sure clothing fits you. When you purchase an item from a designer, chances are that you selected a sample piece that needs to be fit to your size and style. And that includes playing with different lengths, having options on the sleeves of a top, making sure your preferred heel height is ideal for your new slacks, selecting buttons, deciding on zippers and above all, taking a basic design and creating your individual look. Here is Allison in the final fittings for her green dress.

This Friday, TheWorkingWardrobe will feature Allison in her final finished looks for Part 2 of this week’s “Designers Who Work It” segment. Stay tuned!

Photos: Abigail Harenberg www.abigailharenberg.com

Last Thursday during the Chicago unveiling of Kenneth Cole’s new line of footwear, 925, I asked the designer a few questions behind his style and inspiration.

WorkingWardrobe
How did you come up with the concept of 925 technology?
KennethCole
It took four years from conception. It was my goal to make the most comfortable shoe that a woman could wear from nine to five and also from five to nine. For years it was okay for a woman to wear one pair of shoes to work, another pair at work, and another pair after work. This is one shoe for all.

WorkingWardrobe
So I take it that 925 is a play on the term “9 to 5”?
KennethCole
That’s right!

WorkingWardrobe
Do you feel this technology will compete with the footwear that you already carry?
KennethCole
Absolutely not because pretty soon all of our shoes will be made with this technology. This is just the preview.

WorkingWardrobe
Will men be as lucky to get this technology from your footwear?
KennethCole
Absolutely! The menswear 925 technology is right around the corner.

WorkingWardrobe
What would a working woman wear with a pair of Kenneth Cole 925 technology pumps that would complete her work ensemble both in high fashion and extreme comfort?
KennethCole
The 925 pumps act as the key element of any outfit. They could go with the business suit to the basic dress, but transition along with that outfit into evening. The shoes work as the launching point to where your outfit can take you.

After my discussion with Kenneth Cole, I of course had to try on a pair of his shoes! And oh my gosh I didn’t want to take them off! I have orthotics that I religiously put into all my shoes – not only would I not need those in these shoes, but I feel that they provided even more comfort and support (don’t tell my chiropractor)!

Here is the breakdown of the 925 technology of the Kenneth Cole pump: memory foam, flaxseed pillow in the arch, sheepskin lining, a foam layer for shock absorption, embedded cork, flexible rubber sole and an impact resistant nylon heel lift. Here’s the visual that the store had on display:

No matter what the science is behind the footwear, Kenneth Cole not only made my first pair of work pumps – but he may have made my last as well. Here was my personal favorite of the evening, and now lovingly stationed next to a particular salmon-colored pump in my closet.

However four years ago, the Chicago-based designer decided to go back into the fashions of the clothing sector.

“It was by request,” she shared. “I made some shirts to photograph with the scarves and I a few stores carried them.” One of those stores included a downtown Chicago boutique, Only She, at which she worked with and eventually grew with when it expanded. “I ended up having a store within a store,” she said.

Now Berry has her own studio just north of Chicago’s hip Wicker Park neighborhood, and boasts a collection of clothing made for the woman who wants to look professional but also wants to show that she has an arty side.

“My clients have an artistic sensibility,” said Berry. “ She is in advertising, arts and administration, museums…an entrepreneur.” Berry also makes sure that her designs work for the every-day woman bringing forth every body type.

When asked whether she will stay with designing both clothing and scarves, Berry shrugged her shoulders. “We’ll see what happens,” she said. Then she laughed. “You know how loggers have to carry logs down a river for logging?” She described show she envisioned the loggers dancing and maneuvering around the logs. “That’s what I think of on running your own business.” So despite any changes that may come to Berry, she has made it clear through her work and her history that she can not only roll with the punches, she can do so in stylish stride.

When asked what every working woman needs: “Self confidence,” she replied. “A lot of times clothes can give you that, but you need to feel that you have everything under control and then just dive in.”

Photos: Eric Shropshire Photography